Patient Guide: Chemical Peels

A chemical peel is a professional treatment in which a controlled acid solution is applied to the skin to remove layers of the epidermis, and in some cases reach the upper dermis, triggering cell renewal and collagen stimulation. The depth of the peel, determined by the acid type and concentration, determines what it can treat and what the recovery involves. Pricing is confirmed on the chemical peels treatment page.

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What a chemical peel is

The term “chemical peel” covers a wide range of treatments, from a 15-minute superficial glycolic acid treatment with no visible downtime to a medium-depth trichloroacetic acid (TCA) peel that produces several days of visible skin shedding. Understanding which category a peel falls into is essential before choosing one, because the recovery, the appropriate concern, and the patient selection criteria differ significantly between them.

The mechanism shared by all peels is controlled chemical exfoliation. The acid denatures the proteins in the skin cells it reaches, causing those cells to detach from the layers beneath. As the treated cells are shed, the skin beneath is renewed. In superficial peels, this process is confined to the epidermis; in medium-depth peels, it extends to the upper dermis, where the wound-healing response stimulates new collagen formation.

At The London Road Clinic, we use professional peel formulations from Obagi Medical and ZO Skin Health, brands with established clinical data and consistent manufacturing standards. The peel selected for each patient is determined at consultation based on skin type, Fitzpatrick classification, current skincare, and the primary concern being addressed.

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Peel types: a clinical overview

Peel depth	Typical agents	What it reaches	Best suited to	Recovery
Superficial	Glycolic acid (20–50%), lactic acid, mandelic acid, salicylic acid	Epidermis only	Radiance, mild texture, mild pigmentation, active acne (salicylic)	Minimal: some redness, possible light flaking over 2–3 days
Medium-depth	TCA (15–35%), Jessner’s + TCA	Papillary dermis	Moderate pigmentation, acne scarring, texture, fine lines	5–7 days: significant redness, visible peeling, shedding
Deep	Phenol	Reticular dermis	Deep scarring, significant solar damage	Not routinely performed in aesthetic clinic settings; hospital environment

At The London Road Clinic, we offer superficial and medium-depth peels. Deep phenol peels fall outside routine aesthetic clinic practice and are not part of our current treatment menu.

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What chemical peels can address

Skin texture and radiance

Superficial peels are among the most effective and accessible treatments for dull, rough skin surface caused by accumulated dead cells and slowed cell turnover. A course of glycolic or lactic acid peels, combined with appropriate homecare, produces consistent improvement in skin texture and radiance. This concern is covered in detail in the dull and tired-looking skin guide.

Pigmentation and uneven skin tone

Both superficial and medium-depth peels address pigmentation by removing the cells in which melanin is concentrated and accelerating the turnover of those that follow. Glycolic acid peels are useful for mild sun-induced pigmentation and post-inflammatory marks from acne. For more significant pigmentation or melasma, a medium-depth peel may produce faster improvement, but patient selection is critical: in darker skin types (Fitzpatrick IV to VI), the wrong peel can trigger post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation that worsens the concern rather than improving it. This is discussed further in the hyperpigmentation guide.

Salicylic acid peels are oil-soluble and penetrate the pore more effectively than AHAs. They are particularly useful for acne-associated pigmentation (post-inflammatory erythema and hyperpigmentation) and for skin with ongoing sebaceous activity.

Acne scarring

Chemical peels do not restructure the skin architecture in the way microneedling or RF microneedling does, but they are a useful component of an acne scar treatment programme, particularly for the post-inflammatory pigmentation and surface texture component of scarring. The clinical detail on acne scar types and which respond to which treatments is in the acne scarring guide.

Fine lines associated with skin quality

Superficial peels improve the appearance of fine lines primarily through improved hydration, texture and surface reflectivity. Medium-depth peels stimulate dermal collagen, producing more meaningful improvement in lines associated with skin thinning. Neither peel type addresses expression lines (those require a different approach).

Active acne

Salicylic acid peels (typically 20–30%) are well-established for active acne. The lipophilic nature of salicylic acid allows it to penetrate the sebaceous follicle and reduce comedone formation, sebum activity and bacterial load simultaneously. A course of six sessions, two to four weeks apart, is a recognised approach in patients with ongoing breakouts.

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The treatment: what to expect

Consultation and preparation

Every patient at The London Road Clinic has a consultation before any peel is performed. The consultation determines which peel depth and formulation is appropriate, and includes an assessment of Fitzpatrick skin type, current skincare (some ingredients must be paused before treatment), any history of cold sores, and contraindications.

Preparation: patients on retinoids, prescription-strength exfoliating acids, or certain photosensitising medications are advised to pause these in the week before treatment. Patients with a history of herpes simplex (cold sores) may require antiviral prophylaxis before a medium-depth peel; peel-induced trauma can trigger reactivation.

Read more about what to expect at a consultation at The London Road Clinic.

The appointment

A superficial peel appointment takes 30 to 45 minutes. The skin is cleansed and degreased. The acid solution is applied in a controlled manner and left for a prescribed time before neutralisation or removal. Most patients notice tingling or mild stinging during application, which settles quickly. The skin appears pink to red immediately after.

A medium-depth peel takes a similar time but requires more preparation and aftercare. The post-procedure reaction is more pronounced: significant redness for 24 to 48 hours, followed by visible peeling and shedding over the following three to seven days.

Recovery by peel depth

Superficial peel:

• Day 1: Redness, some sensitivity. Skin feels tight.
• Days 2–3: Possible very light flaking, easily mistaken for dry skin.
• Day 3–5: Skin back to baseline appearance. Some improvement in texture visible.
• Make-up can usually be worn the following day.

Medium-depth peel:

• Days 1–2: Significant redness, warmth, and swelling. Skin feels tight.
• Days 3–5: Visible peeling. The skin sheds in sheets in some patients. This should not be picked or pulled.
• Days 5–7: Peeling resolves. New skin beneath is pink and sensitive.
• Days 7–14: Pinkness fades. Full result develops over the following four to six weeks.

For both peel depths, the following apply during recovery:

• No strenuous exercise or heat exposure (saunas, steam rooms) until redness has fully resolved.
• No active skincare ingredients (retinoids, acids, vitamin C) until the skin has fully settled.
• SPF 30 or above applied consistently every morning without exception. See the sun damage and SPF guide. The skin after a peel is significantly more photosensitive; UV exposure during recovery counteracts the result and risks triggering pigmentation.
• Do not pick, rub or peel shedding skin. Forced removal before natural separation increases the risk of scarring and pigmentation.

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Results and realistic expectations

Superficial peels: most patients notice improved brightness and smoother texture within a week of a single peel. The improvement from a course of four to six sessions, spaced two to four weeks apart, is cumulative and meaningful. Superficial peels are not a dramatic single-session intervention; they are most effective as a programme.

Medium-depth peels: the result from a single medium-depth peel is more significant, reflecting the deeper tissue response. Improvement in pigmentation, texture and fine lines becomes visible once the recovery phase completes, typically at two to four weeks post-treatment. The full collagen stimulation benefit develops over two to three months.

What peels do not produce:

• Correction of significant volume loss or structural ageing (filler and bio-remodelling address those).
• Permanent results; skin continues to age and be affected by environmental factors. Maintenance peels and consistent homecare sustain the result.
• Improvement in skin laxity; energy-based treatments are more effective for that concern. The skin laxity guide covers this.

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Suitability

Chemical peels are suitable for most adults seeking to improve skin texture, tone, radiance, or mild-to-moderate acne scarring. Skin type assessment is essential because it determines the appropriate peel formulation.

Generally suitable:

• Adults with skin texture concerns, mild-to-moderate pigmentation, dullness, or acne scarring.
• Fitzpatrick types I to III for medium-depth peels; superficial peels may be appropriate across more skin types with careful formulation selection.
• Patients with active acne who are suitable for a salicylic acid peel course.

Not suitable or requires careful assessment:

Contraindication	Why
Active herpes simplex (cold sores)	Peel-induced trauma can trigger reactivation; antiviral prophylaxis required before medium-depth peels in patients with a history
Isotretinoin (Roaccutane) within the past 6–12 months	Isotretinoin significantly alters skin barrier and healing; medium-depth peels are contraindicated until the prescribing clinician confirms it is safe
Pregnancy and breastfeeding	Standard contraindication for most professional peels
Recent significant sun exposure or active tan	Increased PIH risk; treatment should be deferred
Fitzpatrick types IV–VI for medium-depth peels	Higher risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation; peel formulation must be selected with care; superficial options are often preferred
Active skin infection or open wounds in the treatment area	Peel application contraindicated
Patients under 18	All cosmetic treatments at The London Road Clinic are for adults only, in line with UK age-restriction legislation introduced in October 2021

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How peels fit with other treatments

Chemical peels work well alongside other treatments in a planned programme. Some relevant combinations:

Peels and Lumecca IPL: peels address cell turnover and surface texture; Lumecca targets chromophores in melanin and haemoglobin directly. Where pigmentation and vascular concerns coexist with texture concerns, combining both in a programme (sequenced appropriately, not on the same day) addresses more of the picture than either alone.

Peels and microneedling: peels address the surface; microneedling drives collagen induction at depth. For acne scarring with a significant pigmentation component, alternating peel and microneedling sessions over a course of months addresses both the surface pigmentation and the structural scar component. Read more in the microneedling patient guide.

Peels and homecare: professional peels amplify the effect of appropriate homecare and are amplified by it in return. A patient using a well-formulated retinoid and vitamin C consistently will respond more effectively to a peel course than one with no active skincare foundation. The two are not alternatives.

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